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Landscaping

Laying a new lawn: turf, seed or artificial

One local tradesperson gets your request – no ring-round.

Your request: Landscaping

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A new lawn is mostly ground preparation. The rolls of turf take a day to lay; the digging, levelling, soil improvement and firming beforehand decide whether the lawn is flat, green and dry underfoot in a few years' time or patchy, bumpy and waterlogged. Paying for good preparation is the main way to avoid paying twice. Tell us about the area and your request goes to one landscaper who lays lawns in your area.

  • Exactly one business. Your request is handed out once. After that, no other business sees it.
  • You know who will be in touch. Before the business receives your contact details, we send you its name, address and phone number.
  • Withdraw at any time. You can withdraw your consent at any time – using the link in our email.

Turf, seed or artificial grass

Cultivated turf gives a usable lawn within weeks and can be laid for much of the year, as long as the ground is not frozen or baked dry. It costs more than seed and must be laid within a day or so of delivery, because rolled turf deteriorates quickly. Ask what grade of turf the landscaper uses; hard-wearing mixes suit family gardens, finer grasses suit ornamental lawns and need more care.

Seed is cheaper and gives you a choice of grass mixes, including ones for shade or dry ground. It needs warmth and moisture to germinate, which is why spring and early autumn are the usual seasons, and the lawn cannot be used for some weeks. Birds, weeds and heavy rain can spoil a newly seeded area.

Artificial grass needs no mowing or watering, and some people choose it for heavily used or shaded areas. It is a plastic surface on a prepared base, it gets hot in direct sun, it does not support insects or soil life, and it eventually has to be replaced and disposed of. If you choose it, the base and drainage beneath matter just as much as for real turf.

What proper preparation involves

The old grass and weeds are removed, persistent perennial weeds dealt with, and the ground cultivated to break up compaction. Stones and debris come out. Topsoil is added where the existing soil is thin or poor. The surface is then levelled, firmed by treading or rolling, and raked to a fine tilth. Skipping the firming leaves soft spots that sink later.

Levels matter at the edges. A lawn should finish just below an adjoining path or patio so the mower can run over the edge, and it should not slope towards the house. On clay soils or where water sits after rain, drainage may be needed before any turf goes down.

  • the area in square metres and a sketch or photograph
  • removal of old turf and weeds, and where it goes
  • cultivation depth and treatment of compacted ground
  • topsoil added, its depth and standard
  • levelling, firming and edging
  • turf grade or seed mix by name
  • watering instructions and any aftercare visits
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Shade, clay and heavy use

Grass grows poorly in dense shade under trees or beside tall fences. A new lawn will not change that. Shade-tolerant seed mixes help a little; in deep shade, planting or a gravel area is often the better answer, and a good landscaper will tell you so.

Clay soils hold water in winter and crack in summer. Improving the top layer and adding drainage helps, but a lawn on clay will always need more care. Areas used heavily, such as a path worn from the back door to the shed or a goalmouth, wear out whatever grass is used. Stepping stones or a path through the lawn are cheaper than relaying it every year.

Watering a new lawn and hosepipe bans

New turf needs a lot of water in its first weeks, especially in dry or warm weather. The landscaper should give you written watering instructions and tell you when you can first mow. Laying in autumn or spring reduces the watering needed.

In a drought, water companies in England and Wales can impose a temporary use ban, often called a hosepipe ban, which can include watering a garden with a hosepipe. The law treats anything used for the same purpose as a hosepipe, such as a sprinkler, in the same way. Each company's notice sets out its own exceptions. If a ban is in force or likely, check the notice before laying a lawn in summer, or wait for autumn.

Common mistakes

Turf laid on unprepared, compacted ground is the classic. So is turf left rolled on a pallet for days in warm weather, which yellows and dies. Walking on new turf before it has rooted, mowing too early and too short, and letting it dry out in the first fortnight kill more lawns than bad turf does.

Another mistake is to lay the lawn before the rest of the garden work is finished. Paving, fencing and planting all involve barrows and boots. Lay the lawn last.

Your lawn request

Tell us the size of the area, what is there now and whether you want turf, seed or artificial grass. Once we have verified your phone and email, the request is shown anonymously to landscapers in your area and only one firm can buy it. We send you its name, address and phone number before it gets your details. There is no charge for you. We confirm that the firm is registered, not that its lawns take, so ask how it prepares the ground.

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Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to lay turf?

Autumn and spring are easiest, because the ground is moist and the weather mild. Turf can be laid in summer with plenty of watering, and in winter when the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.

Is seed or turf better for a family garden?

Both can work. Turf gives a usable lawn much sooner, which matters with children and dogs. Seed is cheaper and lets you choose a hard-wearing mix, but the area must be kept off for some weeks.

Can new turf be watered during a hosepipe ban?

It depends on the water company's notice. Bans can cover sprinklers as well as hosepipes, and exceptions differ between companies. Read the notice for your area, and use a watering can or collected rainwater if needed.

How soon can I walk on or mow new turf?

Keep off it until the roots have taken, which usually takes a few weeks. Lift a corner gently: if it resists, the roots are growing in. The first cut should be light, with the mower set high.

Should I choose artificial grass instead?

It suits some situations, such as heavy use or deep shade. It is not maintenance-free, gets hot in the sun, provides no habitat and has to be replaced eventually. Weigh that against the care a real lawn needs.

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Describe your project – your request goes to exactly one business.

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